Thursday, May 5, 2016

New Photo Round-Up: La Paz, Mexico




La Paz sunset




The official government mailman delivers his mail by bicycle! Isn't that cool? 
The city is flat for the most part, so bicycles are the way to go. 



street scene 


They have free line dancing classes twice a week at the La Paz marina: count me in!




Laurie of s/v Trovita, me and Jenn of s/v Orca 
-- being total goofballs




This sparrow stood just outside the open door of our line-dancing class 
 and sang along to the music for 30 minutes! I'm not kidding. He totally 
      loves Kenny Chesney and The Oak Ridge Boys. Maybe all sparrows love 
country music? Someone should look into it. #newtheory

Bless his achy-braky little heart! 





 Mexican boys hang out and skateboard on one of the few hills in La Paz





Just bought this shampoo with "chili" essence.
 Hmmmm. Welcome to Mexico! I'll report back after using it...


We were thrilled to find one afternoon that the Baja 500 car race (a little brother to the more famous Baja 1000) would be starting in La Paz the very next day! 

Baja-style offroad racing -- in Baja! How cool is that?

When in Rome...

We cancelled all of our plans (OK, OK -- we had no plans) and headed to the starting area the next day to see the race.



Chris chats with one of the drivers




Practicing for my future occupation of "Car Show Spokesmodel"




Hundreds of people lined the street for the race start. It was really scary, because as you 
can see there are no guardrails protecting the viewers from the cars screaming 
by at close to 100MPH. And many of the fans just stood right out in the middle of the street, as visible in the photo. #muyloco



Check this out: the dad insists on holding his toddler (plugging his little ears -- the cars were LOUD) and standing out IN THE MIDDLE OF THE STREET as the cars careened toward him and barreled by only a couple of feet away. His wife off to the right looks on, powerless. 




Mark of s/v Trovita and Chris stood right on the curb as the cars sped by only a couple of feet away. Notice Laurie, s/v Trovita first mate, smartly standing 5 feet behind. Also notice that I took this photo from 10 feet away from the curb. I may be a Wimpy Cruiser, but sometimes that translates into being a SMART cruiser. :-} 





Shade is a hot commodity (pun intended) in Baja, so it was pretty cute seeing this family smartly using every little bit of available shade to their advantage to watch the race start.





La Paz main beach


I try to swim every day in the anchorage, even though the water is getting COLDER as summer approaches (it's now 70 degrees, down from 71 last week). Weird, huh? Anyway, the current in the anchorage is crazy strong. It's like we're anchored in a rushing river. 

I'm a strong swimmer, but the threat of being swept out to sea is definitely there, so Chris made me a "Chez lifeline" to hold onto as I swim and bathe.



Me holding onto the Chez lifeline as the water barrels past 






Captain Chris and La Paz plumage 


In other news, I awoke one morning at 3AM and popped into the cockpit to look around. I looked up and saw 2 or 3 shooting stars hurtle across the sky. I found out the next morning that Planet Earth is moving through the tail of Haley's Comet, so what I saw was bits of the comet's tail entering the atmosphere.

#wow





Chris ponders his lime-flavored Fritos -- the only variety available in Mexico. 
I miss the American ones myself...





We loved this cute group of scouts down at the beach. Notice it's both boys and girls -- 
do they have unisex scouts in Mexico? #hmmmmmm #kindacoolIthink 




lampost sunset

Our buds Bret and Marne of s/v LeaHona introduced us to this cool local hangout where they make the most delicious fresh pork tacos right on the street.




                  Bret of s/v LeaHona observes as his fresh pork taco is prepared (notice the flames shooting out onto the meat and the quickly slicing-and-dicing machete-like knife). 


Speaking of food, you may be asking yourself:

Whatever happened to Mr. Bill?

Now kids, you may not know what I'm talking about. Mr. Bill was a much beloved recurring character on Saturday Night Live back in the 1970's. 



Mr. Bill, last seen in New York City, circa 1979

To find out how beloved he was, try this experiment: go up to your parents, put your hands on your cheeks, open your eyes wide, and in a high, shrieky voice cry:

"Oh, no, Mr. Bill!!!!"

I promise you -- mom and dad will burst out laughing, give you a big hug and immediately take you off of restriction forever. 

Try it, and report back. 

Anyway, noone's seen Mr. Bill since 1979. Noone knows where he is.

Until now.

Thanks to me, the mystery is solved!

I found Mr. Bill, apparently a fugitive in hiding deep in
 Mexico, as so many Americans are.




Mr Bill -- FOUND on a slice of WalMart pizza in La Paz, Mexico.
Sort of a crappy disguise, but he was easy to find, if you're looking for him


Speaking of "Oh, no, Mr. Bill!", a few days ago I was alone aboard Espiritu one afternoon while Chris ran errands in town. I tinkered in the galley and enjoyed a rare bit of solitude aboard. Suddenly, the watermaker started up ALL BY ITSELF, making horrifying noses:

"Shreeeeeeek! Click! Moooooaaaaaaaannnn...." 

The lights on the watermaker panel began flashing and blinking.

Oh, noes. The watermaker is Chris' thing. I know nothing about it, except that it pulls in water from the ocean and brings it into the boat.

Were we sinking? Was the watermaker about to explode?

I looked at the watermaker mechanism -- no smoke or flames were coming out, and seawater wasn't filling the boat. 

Quite scared, I called Chris on the VHF, (no answer) and then our friends aboard s/v Trovita (also no answer) and finally, Derek aboard s/v Interabang, who talked me down.

Together, we concluded that this was merely a normal fresh water cleansing of the mechanism that the watermaker performs every 5 days between making water. 

Whew! This Wimpy Cruiser decided that maybe I need to become just a tad bit more knowledgeable about how our new (used) watermaker works.

Speaking of the watermaker, which we purchased used from our friends Allen and Patricia of s/v Nauti Nauti -- they left La Cruz for the Marquesas Islands in the South Pacific 36 days ago, and have still not reported in on facebook.




s/v Nauti Nauti said on facebook that their voyage to the South Pacific would take 3 weeks. It's now 5 weeks and they haven't check in yet. We also haven't heard from s/v Batu and s/v Yellow Feather, who left La Cruz at around the same time.

I'm sure they're all probably fine -- we're assuming the wind just died. Hopefully they're all three bobbing in the same vicinity and can toss canned goods to each other across their bows...

Anyway...in other news...



This waterfront pearl statue commemorates the fact that pearls used to be the big export from La Paz, until they were all cleaned out. Captain Chris pointed out that the shell in the sculpture is actually a clam, not an oyster. But I guess clam shells are prettier.








I love this ultra-modern houseboat in the La Paz marina




La Paz dive shop



This La Paz local does not read English, so he doesn't know that his t-shirt 
says: "I'm not a hipster." The thing is, though...he kinda IS. 





Cuddling with a fellow cruiser's little King Cavalier Spaniel, a sweet flashback 
to our family's dear departed spaniel Chloe. 




Beach sunset


On Mexican Labor day, thousands of workers held a public protest along the malecon. Their concerns are similar to those of workers in the U.S. and around the world: declining salaries and benefits, worsening job security and an economic future that looks increasingly grim.




RIP Democracy






There's a nice local place where we went to have coffee with friends. It wasn't too far after April Fool's Day, so I truly thought I was being punked when I walked into the nice ladies room and saw THIS:



I swear to God, I thought it was a rubber bug someone placed there as a joke. I mean, the placement was just too perfect, right? But as I crept closer, his little antennae spinning around all hurly-burly came into view.  #holycrap 

I truly think that the cockroach thought the toilet paper roll was a sweet little soft, white, 
clean bed that someone had set up there, just for him! 

I turned off the light and ran back to Chris, who did his captain's duty by 
"taking care of" the issue for me. 

Needless to say, I removed the top layers of the toilet paper roll before proceeding to do my business.

Welcome to Mexico!      :-) 

Anyway, Good Lord, this blog has gone on long enough!



No more photos, please! Enough about me!



What's new with YOU? Send me an e-mail...I really want to know...

XOXO

lizthatgirl@gmail.com





































Monday, April 25, 2016

Mazatlan to La Paz




La Paz beach and anchorage



We've been hearing all about La Paz for years from other cruisers -- great things. There are 5 marinas here, filled with sailors who came down from the north, expecting to visit for a week or two, and have never left.




We made the 200 mile passage west from Mazatlan to La Paz
(image courtesy of Lonely Planet)



At the halfway point across the Sea of Cortez, winds started blowing from the north, 
so we decided to drop into Bahia de Los Muertos, about 50 miles south of La Paz.

We dropped anchor in the crystal clear water. Chris went ashore and had lunch in the little restaurant with our friends Daragh and Cathryn aboard s/v ChanteyV.

I chose to swim over and snorkel the reef. And, boy, was I glad I did:




40 foot visibility and tons of beautiful fish

Wow! Just gorgeous.  After my hands and feet started to get numb from the cold, I began the swim back to Espiritu. I stopped to chat with our friends aboard s/v Myla. As I treaded water and exchanged stories with them, a sea lion swam by and said hello.

"Excuse me!" I cried to my human friends as I dove below to hang out with the sea lion. Wow. There's another experience I can check off of my bucket list.

Swimming with a sea lion: check!

I told Julie aboard Myla that when swimming in SoCal, you should get very nervous when a sea lion swims by, because that probably means a great white is not far off -- sea lions are their favorite food.

But since there are no great whites in the Sea of Cortez (that we know of), I felt free to frolic.

Not 30 seconds later, though, a fisherman came by and dumped chum and what appeared to be shark parts into the ocean about 50 feet away.

Well. Chum and sea lions in the water. Guess it's time to get to Espiritu.

We said our goodbyes and I snorkeled towards the boat. As I swam, I peered through the water and at the sea floor 30 feet below, an immaculate bluish-white in all directions. 

Two dark objects soon became visible on the ocean floor. I swam closer, and once directly above I was able to see what they were: two freshly severed shark heads -- large hammerhead shark heads, resting on the white sandy bottom.  I guess the fisherman had no use for them. 

Their upside down smiles (which I guess would make them a frown) were sad and shocking to see. The way the heads were resting side by side gave the appearance they they were cuddling together for comfort. 

OK: chum, sea lions, talk of great whites and freshly severed shark heads -- I can take a hint. 

Back to the boat, STAT!

Once aboard Espiritu, Chris returned from the restaurant and reported there was a big beach BBQ and musical jam planned for later that day -- and we were invited! 





     The crews of Myla, Orca, Hotel California and ChanteyV 
            were amongst the sailors at the impromptu get-together. 
     Note in the photo they dug a hole in the sand and built
    the fire that way -- no fire pit needed. Just stick a grill on
 top and you've got a beach BBQ!


Of course, we broke out our instruments and got the party started!
          Daragh (from Dublin), Chris and I played some Irish favorites like "Whiskey Before Breakfast" and "Shove the Pigs Foot (a Little Closer to the Fire)." 



Music jam with our sailboats resting in the distance




Everybody had a great time. It's amazing what a guitar can do to turn a 
just so-so get-together into a memorable song-fest! "Chantilly Lace" and
"Doe, a Deer..." from The Sound of Music were included in our 
wide-ranging repertoir! (LOL-- we're goofballs) 




Dune buggies were here


At 0-dark-30 the next morning, all eight of the sailboats pulled anchor 
and made the 50+ mile sail north to La Paz.

After a beautiful, warm sail, we finally entered the bay. Chris and I had never been here before, so we were like wide-eyed toddlers -- all input.




We motored past this highway just outside of town. The rocks above the highway 
give the illusion of holding entrapped ghostly skeleton faces.






Hurricane Odile battered La Paz in 2014, and we passed some sailboat victims 
still resting sadly on the shore





Hurricane Odile hits La Paz, 2014


And speaking of hurricanes, I'm extremely aware of the fact that we're entering hurricane season in a few weeks. Summer in the Sea of Cortez means risk of hurricanes, and we'll be keeping a very close eye on the weather. The good news is there is usually a few days warning as they churn north from southern Mexico and the Pacific, so we'll have a chance to get to a hurricane hole and to safety.


We picked our spot in the large anchorage next to our old friends Derek and Trisha aboard Interabang. They're in that group I was talking about earlier: they sailed south from the Bay Area in 2011 and have basically never left La Paz and the Sea of Cortez. 

La Paz is it for them: home.

That night, after a dinner aboard, we settled in to watch our latest TV obsession: HBO's Treme.

As I was watching, I noted a little spotlight peeping in through the hatch:





The full moon pops in to say hello through the hatch in the upper left corner of the shot
 as Chris and I watch "Treme" on TV

We looked at each other, paused the show, and scampered out to the cockpit to view the full moon.



The full moon bathes La Paz in a warm light





The next day we went ashore and explored La Paz for the first time.



The La Paz malecon



Beach scene 



Happy   :-) 



On the waterfront



Locals enjoying the beach


OK, alright, we love it.  You can stay in the anchorage for free, but it's 15 pesos/day 
to use the Marina La Cruz dinghy dock, trash, water, etc. 



Bike rack at La Paz Marina


OK, so we're anchored in paradise. Again. We're fortunate and excited about exploring the Sea of Cortez. But it's not PERFECT.

For one thing, it's almost May, and we really should be sweating like Nixon by now. But each morning we're breaking out the fleece and the thick socks just to have coffee in the cockpit. 

The water is 71 degrees, but I'm swimming every afternoon anyway, dammit.

We're in Mexico -- we're in the tropics. And I'm swimming. Period.

There's a daily cruiser's net at 0800 on channel 22. Yesterday the net predicted "zero chance" of rain. #facepalm  You know what THAT means. Later that afternoone we caught this view from our cockpit:



Yep. After the net so foolishly predicted a "zero" chance of rain, THIS happened. Rain. When "The Powers That Be" hear anyone say there is a "zero" chance of rain (or anything), well, they feel compelled to act. 





We saw this scary sign for the "Psycho Circus." Yikes! Gracias, no.





This sign was painted at the entrance to a restaurant on the malecon. Hmmm. IMHO this sign painter is a bit misguided. Yes, far too many people use religion as an excuse to judge and hate. But some of the kindest, most loving people I know are "religious." 

I think we can all agree: "haters" are bad, and "open minds" and "hearts full of love" are good, right!

And we can just leave it at that.