Saturday, January 7, 2017
Beautiful La Ventana on the Sea of Cortez
Chris and I enjoyed a festive holiday season here in La Paz, Mexico.
Santa and his Santa clothes decorate a Christmas window
Chris and John of s/v Alley-Oop enjoy a holiday meal
at the Club Cruceros Cruisers Christmas Eve Dinner
Christmas with the crew of s/v Espiritu
Not long after we sat down with our Christmas fixins, I
looked down to see that an ant colony had chosen a spot right in the middle of
the throbbing Christmas Eve Potluck
to suddenly pop out of the ground and take a look around. Now that I think about it,
it was probably a smart move -- maybe they were looking for some Christmas scraps!
These ants just wanted to join the Christmas festivities!
I dropped a few crumbs of the tastiest Christmas cookies
down into the hole, which the ants gratefully and excitedly
dragged down into the bowels of their real life ant farm.
I guarded the little ant colony for most of the evening,
protecting people from accidentally destroying their
little ant house. But as it was in the middle of a
busy parking lot, I knew their fate would eventually be sealed.
Ah, well...they'll just build another one, I guess.
Christmas Eve full moon in the La Paz anchorage
I organized a cruiser's White Elephant gift exchange for Christmas morning at Club Cruceros.
As usual for this greatest of Christmas traditions, it was a rolicking good time.
Mark of s/v Trovita shows off his white elephant gift of bright red
Abercrombie and Fitch Christmas skivvies.
Chris and I decided our Christmas gift to each other would be an afternoon at the movies -- so the next day we went to see "Rogue One," the latest Star Wars extravaganza.
Our friend John of s/v Alley-Oop came too, and gave us a ride to the theater.
Waiting at a stoplight, a local handed John a newborn chihuahua
through the car window and offered him for sale.
We were tempted -- how cute is this little guy!
But the light changed and we regretfully handed
him back through the window.
Megaplexes here in Mexico are surprisingly posh and much
more affordable than in the states.
They even offer cuddly blankets to take into the theater!
"Rogue One" was in English with Spanish subtitles.
I took this photo in the theater during the climactic final battle scene.
The approximate translation is:
"Blue Squadron, go in low before they close the door!"
Anyway, it was a pretty good Christmas.
Of course, the festivities were not over yet. A week later, there was yet another
Club Cruceros Cruiser's Potluck, this time for New Years Eve.
2017 balloons at Club Cruceros at Marina La Paz
Our good friends Patty and Queenie of s/v Le Chez Boute arrived at La Paz only the day before, and they would be heading south the next morning. We love these guys. We first met them sailing in Roatan, Honduras in 2012.
Their home base is in Southern California, so if we're lucky, they'll be our buddies for life.
Me and Queenie clowning around on New Years Eve
A few days later we were running some errands in town when...
Hey...I know you...what in the heck are YOU doing here?!?!?
Yep -- it was my old buddy Tom Forquer! We had worked together in California at the
Inside the Outdoors Science School in the San Bernardino mountains.
Turns out Tom was down here kite boarding in nearby La Ventana for the holidays. After swapping stories and catching up for several minutes, we made plans to come out and visit him in La Ventana, about an hour's drive southeast along the Sea of Cortez.
As luck would have it, our expat friend Bill loaned us his spotless Mercedes convertible for the day.
La Ventana, here we come!
We broke out Google Earth on our new Ipad, yelled "Travel Dogs!"
(our family tradition) and hit the road on a gorgeous, clear Baja morning.
Unfortunately for us, a truckers strike had recently broke out here in Baja due to the sudden January 1st 20% rise in oil prices by the Mexican government. Truck drivers were blocking roads and striking up and down Baja and throughout Mexico. It's still going on at this writing.
Mexicans work hard, for very little money. I know from speaking with my Mexican friends here that a 20% increase in gas will mean that many will have to choose between driving to work and feeding their kids. The line between surviving and abject poverty is razor thin.
The blockade is having an impact, too. Major highways are being blocked, and products and services are being shut down.
We noticed some empty shelves for the first time when shopping yesterday.
The trucker's strike and blockade is having an effect.
Sure enough, as we tried to drive onto the highway towards La Ventana, the entrance
was completely blocked by a striking trucker
Eventually we found another entrance onto the highway in a less
populated area, and we headed southeast.
Mercedes convertible selfie
After a lovely drive through the desert, we arrived at
beautiful La Ventana beach later that morning
We learned that La Ventana is world-renowned as a mecca for kite boarders and wind surfers.
The peaceful La Ventana waterfront and the flat-calm Sea of Cortez.
There was not a lick of wind, and no kite boarders could be found.
I think everybody was still sleeping...or hung over. :-)
We nabbed Tom and grabbed some lunch at a cute little local Tacos-on-the-street type eatery.
Chris and Tom catch up over lunch
Sure enough, while we ate the wind started to pick up.
People come from around the world to camp on the beach and kiteboard here
Beautiful La Ventana beach
With the wind came dozens and dozens of windsurfers and kiteboarders.
Note the guy on the left flying high in the air.
What a spectacle!
Tom and Chris walk up the beach as we prepare to say our goodbyes.
The wind was up, and Tom needed to don his gear, Gladiator-like, and get on out there!
What a beautiful day we had at La Ventana!
Feliz Ano Nuevo!
Saturday, December 24, 2016
Christmas in La Paz, Mexico
It's Christmas Eve, and here in Baja people are scampering around preparing for the big day.
La Paz, Mexico -- our home for the holidays
. There's lots of traffic here in La Paz (population around 200,000) today as everyone does their last minute shopping. It's not as bad as South Coast Plaza (come on -- it's still Baja!) but Mexicans love Christmas even more than Americans do.
Gaily decorated sailboats compete for attention along the La Paz waterfront
A lighted Christmas VW bug speeds along the waterfront,
while the inflatable Santa on top holds on tight
Blue lights entwine a large ficus tree, ubiquitous here in La Paz
My photo op with a young local boy rehearsing
for his big role of Joseph in the Christmas play
This Christmas altar in the yard of a home here in La Paz is typical
of others throughout Mexico
The owner of this fancy power boat in the marina spared no
expense for his Christmas light display
We attended a Christmas pageant at the large Catholic church in town.
Truth be told, I didn't completely understand everything that I saw there, but
it was dramatic nonetheless.
Wisemen (I think?) enter the church for the Christmas pageant
Close-up of the wisemen's mask, which was actually a little bit creepy.
As always, I'm missing my family back in the states as I write this. Choosing the cruising lifestyle, with months and years away from family and friends, is hardest during this time.
I realized yesterday that in recent years when Chris and I have been cruising and helping deliver other people's boats, we've been away from family and in exotic locales for FIVE of the last several Christmases (Portugal, Honduras, and three in Mexico).
Of course, this is one of many prices we pay for choosing to go off on these sailing adventures.
Besides the financial cost/sacrifice, this one (to quote our President Elect) is HUGE.
But, what am I gonna do, feel sorry for myself because I'm in a warm, exotic locale on a
sailboat with my handsome husband for Christmas?
Um...NO. That would be unseemly for several reasons. (smile)
What I'm going to do is buck up.
One of the most powerful life lessons I've learned is that for every decision we make in life -- for every path we choose -- there is a sacrifice. For every benefit we get by our decisions, we give something up.
This is my sacrifice.
So, what you do is you make the locals and your fellow cruisers your family while you're away from home. It's not easy, and it's not the same -- but it is a great source of camaraderie and fellowship.
So we were especially sad to say goodbye this morning to our very good
friends Bret and Marne of s/v LeaHona.
Farewell dinner last night with Bret and Marne of LeaHona
at Mesquite Grill here in La Paz
We've had the good fortune to hang out with these two in Puerto Vallarta,
Mazatlan, San Carlos AND La Paz. We volunteered together at
the orphanage in Bucerias.
Today, they're sailing south from La Paz and heading for the Mexican mainland,
while we remain here in Baja.
Playing Baja Rummy with Bret and Marne (right), while Trisha
of s/v Interabang plans her next sneaky move
Trisha, we're glad you and Derek are staying in La Paz over the holidays!
Bret and Marne help a local nun down a curb in her wheelchair
Bret getting excited about Christmas at Marina La Paz
So -- they're gone.
As former Laker Coach Phil Jackson said:
"Unceasing change turns the wheel of life."
It was his mantra -- he had it on his desk at Staples Center.
So, we'd all best take this to heart. Who knows what 2017 brings?
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year from
Captain Chris and First Mate Liz, s/v Espiritu
Tuesday, December 13, 2016
The anchorage where we stayed at southern Baja's Caleta Partida is an ancient
volcanic caldera. Gorgeous. But first we had to GET there...
Two weeks before, Chris finished painting Espiritu's bottom at the
San Carlos drydock, across the Sea of Cortez and 400 miles north.
We shook off the drydock blues by dipping our toes in the cold water
with our fellow drydock pals of s/v Slow Flight
Finally Chris' hard work was done, and a freshly painted Espiritu
was happily ker-plunked back in the water.
Espiritu back in the San Carlos anchorage -- the first step to being back at sea!
Since Thanksgiving was only a couple of days away, we decided to stay in San Carlos to enjoy the holiday with our cruising friends before heading out into the great wide open once again.
We were invited to the home of our Dutch Canadian friends Theo and
Marian for a Thanksgiving potluck.
Someone actually baked a chocolate cake that looked like a giant Ding Dong!
A giant Ding Dong! I was so excited!
I hadn't seen an actual Ding Dong in 30 years. Filled with nostalgia for my American youth, I ran from person to person at the potluck exclaiming: "Look! A giant Ding Dong!'
Unfortunately for me, 95% of the 50 guests were Dutch or Canadian.
Evidently they didn't have Ding Dongs in Canada or the Netherlands back in the 60's --
so instead of shared emotional nostalgia for the chocolaty cupcake treat of our youth,
all I got was perplexed stares.
Looks like the Ding Dong was ME. So what else is new? Ah, well.
Starfish collection at Theo and Marian's waterfront home
After the delicious Thanksgiving holiday, it was time to pull anchor and begin the
400+ mile journey south to La Paz on the Baja side.
We said goodbye to our pals Cesar and Fernando at Barracuda Bobs.
These guys are salt of the earth.
We got a good weather window for the 90+ mile overnight sail
southwest across the Sea of Cortez to San Juanico on the Baja side.
The prediction was for fair winds and following seas -- every sailor's dream.
Instead we got cold winds on the nose.
Me sailing to weather on the cold, blustery crossing
When we arrived in San Juanico the next morning, we uttered the famous sailor's motto,
exclaimed only when dropping the anchor after a hard, cold passage:
"Hook that bitch."
Ha! Indeed, we did.
OK. The anchorage at San Juanico was cold and pretty,
but at least we were back on the Baja side.
The anchorage was pretty calm, so we got a good night's sleep after the passage.
Weirdly, though, for the second time in recent memory, I was awakened by the haunting
call of a Mexican owl in the middle of the night.
Hearing an owl is bad luck in Mexican lore. Creepy.
We went ashore with s/v Notre Isle and Windcatcher to do a bit of desert exploring. We hoped
to find the Rancho we had visited months earlier about a mile into the desert.
The Mod Squad
(AKA Gringos hiking into the Mexican desert)
I caught this snap of a striped snake next to the trail
We loved the sight of a wild horse running past
Soon this real Mexican caballero approached on the road,
so we new the Rancho was close by
Since it's nearly winter, the Rancho didn't have any fresh veggies for sale,
but we checked in with the farm animals.
This donkey at the Rancho was VEEERY happy to receive a free scratch
Speaking of donkeys, Mexico sells a very popular body wash called "Donkey's Milk."
It's so popular that it's often the only brand of body wash for sale on the shelf.
We've bought and used several bottles over the weeks and months here in Mexico.
Serious question: what in the heck is the main ingredient in silverly,
shiny, slimy Donkey's Milk body wash?
Honestly, we don't know, and we don't want to know. :-/
But it works, and it's cheap. Moving on...
Check this out: These donkeys were untethered and freely roaming the rancho. As we approached, they appeared to be deep in conversation with the chickens in the henhouse. They turned to look at us as we approached, as if we were interrupting a very serious ranch animal top secret meeting.
Chickens to donkey: "Hey? Where ya goin? Is the meeting over?"
This goat had the original hipster beard.
He came across cool without trying too hard.
After exploring the Rancho, we hiked the mile back across
the desert to the beach and the anchorage.
Harley the boat dog of s/v Notre Isle, went way, way out during his swim
San Juanico beach
We found this giant scapula on the beach. From what species
I know not. Maybe a horse or a cow?
Whispy clouds over cathedral rocks
This cathedral rock at the San Juanico anchorage was 100+ feet tall
The next day we pulled anchor and sailed south along
the Baja to Puerto Escondido, our next destination
Sunrise on the gorgeous Sierra Gigante Mountains over Puerto Escondido
The mountain views here at Puerto Escondido were simply spectacular, and
reminded us of Zion National Park in Utah.
We stayed anchored in the Ellipse for 3 days while the norther blew threw.
We had a music jam aboard with our new friends George and Sherlyn of s/v Believe.
Salty sea dog Lucy sleeps on the music while we jammed with s/v Believe
Chris and George of s/v Believe were amazingly able to laugh after an hour or two of frank discussion of the latest news of President elect Trump's cabinet appointments (The current Exxon-Mobil CEO, with absolutely NO diplomatic or government experience, for Secretary of State -- bada BING!)
After the storm blew threw, we headed south again. Next stop, Agua Verde.
A mule train ambles up the hill above the Agua Verde anchorage
We stayed one night at Agua Verde then headed south again at
daybreak the next day for San Evaristo.
Our good buddies Bret and Marne had caught this marlin just
outside San Evaristo a few months earlier.
Since a big norther with 25-30 knot winds was predicted to arrive in 24-48 hours, we decided to hightail it on out of there and head south to Caleta Partida, a famously beautiful anchorage between Isla Partida and Isla Espiritu Santo.
Me looking down onto the anchorage at beautiful Caleta Partida.
Espiritu and several other sailboats are visible off in the distance.
Our dinghy Swamp Bucket (yes, that's her name!) appears to be
floating in space over the crystal clear water
We explored all over Caleta Partida
Georgeous beach. Who needs the Saychelles when you've got the Sea of Cortez?
Cacti and steep cliffs on the wall of the caldera
We saw this horrifying bug here. Who knows what he is or what he's up to.
Some sort of a flying tarantula?
There were some cool caves here on Isla Partida.
But trust me -- we did not enter in. Maybe the hive or the nest, or whatever
the hell you call the home of that big scary flying tarantula -- is just inside?
After the latest norther blew through, we headed south one last time and finally
arrived at our destination:
La Paz, Mexico
We'll be here at this bustling little Mexican working town through the holidays at least.
Merry Christmas, Feliz Navidad!
XOXO Christobal y Liz