Showing posts with label Manzanillo. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Manzanillo. Show all posts

Wednesday, February 8, 2012

A typical day at anchor aboard "Espiritu"


First, we rise as the sky gently lightens before sunrise...the amethyst rays come quietly peeping in under the v-berth hatch...

La Cruz sunrise aboard "Espiritu"


Chris always rises first.

He heats up what's left of yesterdays coffee in our old-timey camping coffee pot (probably our most loved possession aboard).




Then Chris lowers the dinghy after lifting it up out of the water at bedtime the night before to reduce risk of theft.




With this task done, Chris then settles in to monitor the sunrise. He studies it.

My husband taught me how to watch a sunrise (or a sunset, for that matter). The key with a sunset it this: most people make the mistake of walking away as soon as the star of the show has sunken below the horizon.

Big mistake.


Sunset over Espiritu


He taught me that when watching a sunset, the best part is after the sun has gone down. This is when the real light show begins. THIS is when the pinks and purples show up. THIS is when the miracle happens.

At some point I meander out of bed and join him in the cockpit, bleary eyed.

We then quietly watch the sunrise together, sipping coffee.

Around 8 or 8:30 we'll listen to the morning cruisers net to find out what's what.

Then I'll make breakfast in my Malibu Barbie galley. My usual rotation is:

 a) nonfat, sugar free yogurt (YES, this is available in Mexico!) with fresh fruit, nuts and granola (also surprisingly attainable here);

b) pancakes and fruit;

c) eggs, bacon and fruit;

d) french toast and fruit;

e) eggs, fruit and homemade biscuits

(With all of this fresh papaya, kiwi, mango and banana available, how could we not eat fresh fruit with every meal?)

We read our daily devotions together every morning after breakfast in the cockpit. Often this will lead to a meandering conversation on where we are, where we're going, what our hopes and dreams are, any disappointments or frustrations we may have...

Then it's time to clean the kitchen.

The thing about cooking and cleaning aboard is every simple task is just a little bit more difficult than it is back home, and takes a smidge more effort and time. (As in the camping coffee pot above -- no Mr. Coffee here).

Doing dishes is a bit of a slog. Since we don't have a fresh watermaker, I wash my dishes in ocean water, which I access via a foot pump a couple of feet away. (Cruisers hint: I set a small bowl with fresh water, a dollop of dish soap and a few teaspoons of vinegar in the sink and dip my sponge there to wash the dishes, then rinse in the salt water. The vinegar really helps cut the grease.)

I wash and re-use ziplok bags over and over again, and hang them to dry on our fruit hammock.



Then I'll make my world famous sun tea concoctions -- "Espiritu" style.


Recipe: one green tea bag and two slices of fresh lime in a Coca Cola bottle, and into the sun she goes for the day

                 

I also reuse and fill these bottles with fresh drinking water. I've lately taken to putting these in the freezer, so when we pull them out to drink, the ice slowly melts as the temperature rises...  :-)

In a typical day, we might go into town for provisions. Since we don't have a car, we walk, take the bus and wear our back country backpacks so we can fill them up at Costco, Walmart or Mega.

Here in Las Hadas, Manzanillo, the walk to the bus stop from the anchorage is a shadeless mile. Fortunately the buses are ubiquitous and cheap here in Mexico. One comes by about every 7 minutes.

After our shopping excursion, we cram everything deep into our backpacks and hit the road again, heavy laden with our treasured sustenance.

These are our most exhausting days. After arriving hot and sweaty back on the boat and putting away our priceless booty, it's on with the swimsuits and over the side we go for our watery reward!

While in the water, I'll often spend several minutes scrubbing the waterline with a strong sponge, releasing "Espiritu" from the bonds of the countless species of algae and barnacles that so quickly accumulate on her hull.

Monthly, Chris goes down with the huka line/SCUBA and does a thorough scrubbing all the way down to the tip of the keel.


A late lunch will usually be a simple PB & J or tuna fish sammy. Weirdly, Mexican mayonnaise comes with lime flavoring. It takes some getting used to. But I miss my Best Foods! And of course, some fresh papaya goes on the side with the sandwich, or half of an avocado.

By this time (around 2 or so) we can relax on the boat for a couple of hours before dinner. Usually I'll read and Chris will tinker with one of the countless maintenance tasks which needs tending to, or if I'm lucky, he'll gently play the mandolin as I read my book.

If this part sounds like paradise, then you're right. It is.  :-)

After swimming again, we'll bathe in our outdoor shower in the cockpit before dinner.

Chris will usually entertain me with more music (maybe the fiddle this time -- he is getting SO GOOD -- you should hear him!) as I prepare dinner.

I will often cook several days worth of beans (I believe they must be the official food of Mexico!) in the pressure cooker after soaking them overnight.

Since fresh tortillas are everywhere, and they're cheap and delicious, we'll often have burritos or quesadillas for dinner, with fresh avocado on the side, brown rice (it's hard to find in Mexico, unfortunately) or more papaya.

Then after watching the sunset together, we'll settle in for an evening movie. Tonight, we're looking forward to watching "10" with Bo Derek and the  hilarious antics of the late Dudley Moore (filmed here in Las Hadas).

When in Mexico...

We then pop up into the v-berth and watch something silly on DVD (yes, we have two tiny TV's! One in the main salon, and one in the v-berth) in bed, like an old western. Last night we laughed at the ultra kitchy Roy Rogers in a nugget from the 30's.

When you're desperate for entertainment, you'd be surprised at what you might enjoy!


So that's pretty much it. A day in the life of "Espiritu."

We're getting the hang of it. We work hard, relax afterwards and sleep like babies.















Tuesday, February 7, 2012

New photo round-up

Beach scene in La Manzanilla


Hat washing day aboard Espiritu

                                   


                      We spent a day exploring the maze-like Las Hadas resort here in Manzanillo on foot.
                        It's beautiful,  but I've gotta admit, it's a thrill to go back to our anchored
                            "Espiritu" at the end of our exploring -- 'cause it's FREE! :-)




       This La Manzanilla open air tienda personifies the Mexican grocery experience: note the skylight (saves electricity), the canned goods lining the wall, and of course, Mother Mary overlooking all...




A typical scene in Melaque 

                                                     


Captain Chris peruses the little fleet in our secret anchorage paradise at Carrazal



This La Manzanilla street scene pretty much says it all


We took a day strolling through Barra Navidad. What an adorable little village!



                              Did you ever wonder what happened to Thrifty Drug Stores, and their
              ice cream cones?   They moved to Melaque, evidently! Yes, this is an ice cream store!
                                 Sadly, the cones are no longer 5 cents, though...



Walkway over the estuary in La Manzanilla



Yes, I took this photo in La Manzanilla!
This is a 1,000 pound crocodile in the wild, merely feet from us! Wow!


This suspension bridge over the La Manzanilla crocs seemed very stable, thankfully










Monday, February 6, 2012

Chamela to Manzanillo


We're happily holed here at the Las Hadas anchorage in Manzanillo. It is a lovely place -- an exotic Mediterranean style resort.

The classic film "10" with Bo Derek and Dudley Moore was filmed here






It's a comfortable anchorage, and there is a nice little dinghy beach landing by the Dolphin Restaurant, where we watched El Super Bowl Americano on a tiny TV in Spanish with a bunch of Canadians on vacation.

When we left Chamela on January 29th, it was a pleasant day sail down the coast to Tenecatita Bay. The anchorage there was warm and calm, with good sand holding. But there was nothing THERE at Tenecatita. We were led to believe there would be a town. A fellow cruiser even calls himself the mayor of Tenecatita. Hmmm....

But there has been political strife there, and evidently it has been shut down by the government. We don't know the details, and kept getting conflicting reports from different sources.

Anyway, we took a day sail across the bay to the town of La Manzanilla, as opposed to Manzanillo. They are two separate towns. Manzanilla means "chamomile" and Manzanillo is a poisonous tree. Hmmm...


La Manzanilla beckons


The anchorage at La Manzanilla was comfortable for the day, but it takes the northerly swells head on so it is not recommended overnight.

This town was filled with well-to-do gringos on vacation or in long-term retirement rentals. It is a cultured, artistic town -- clean and lovely.

Upon motoring back across the bay to the Tenecatita anchorage, Chris and I spent the evening playing music with Gregorius of "Foreign Affair" in the cockpit of our friends aboard "Talaria." I made my husband happy by dusting off my flute for a change. As the sun set over the bay, leaving it glittering with dancing spangles, it couldn't have been more pleasant to send some happy little notes dancing across the water, to be lapped up by the several other boats lazing in the anchorage.

The next morning, we pulled anchor and popped a few miles south to the Melaque anchorage.




We had been warned that Melaque has earned the nickname "Rocky Melaque," but this wasn't our experience. It was yet another exceedingly fetching spot on this lovely Mexican gold coast.

We have been rather stunned by the numbers of Americans and Canadian retirees (full and part time) who have infiltrated and nearly taken over several of these lovely seaside Mexican towns. And Melaque was no exception -- in this case there was a gigantic RV park next to the beach filled with long-term residences from the Great White North.

 But I admit a bit of embarrassment due to the large number of corpulent, drunken, scantily clad gringos in the beach palapas, barking out orders to the frantic Mexican workers.


The "new" Mexico


Anyway, I try to bend over backwards to not be an "Ugly American." The Mexicans have been nothing but gracious and welcoming to Chris and I, and I could not be more grateful for the privilege of passing through and living with them amidst such natural abundance, at least for a short time.

On February 2nd, we left Melaque and motored a mere 10 miles south to the isolated jungle cove of Carrizal.

Carrizal Bay

                                   

We spent two blissful nights anchored here in 30 feet with old friends and new aboard "Nyon,", "Talaria," "Waves Away," "Red Witch II" and "Foreign Affair." We snorkeled the amazing reef strewn with green and blue corals, swam and hiked around our private little hideaway.

On our last evening in this paradise, far from people, roads, lights and cars, all of us had a beach bonfire with Chris on mandolin, myself and Gregorius on guitar, and Rick from "Nyon" displaying his considerable skills on the Irish drum.

Never pass up a chance to have a beach bonfire! They're magic...


Which brings us to Manzanillo, where we find ourselves today. We plan on staying here at least a couple of more days and provisioning at Mega and Wal-Mart. After that we head south yet again...

From this point, as we get farther away from the states and from large cities, our internet access will be more and more sporadic. Please know that it may be a couple of weeks at least between postings. Remember that the weather down here is incredibly mild and inviting during this time of year. And we're surrounded by many sailing friends.

We sailors take care of each other -- we look out for each other. It's in our genes, and our DNA.

So don't worry. We're having the adventure of a lifetime!