Family and La Cruz

                              "You don't choose your family. They are God's gift to you, 
                                     as you are to them." -- Bishop Desmond Tutu




"I can't breathe. I CAN'T BREATHE!" 


Chris bolted out of a deep sleep at 2AM last night crying out those fateful words.


In a panic, he bolted out of bed and into the pitch black main salon, and I followed close behind.  He leaned over the sink and coughed and wheezed, muttering "I can't catch my breath..." 


This was so shocking coming from my husband, my captain. Mr. indestructible. Mr "Walk it off." Mr. 10-times-the-energy-of-everyone-else-in-the-room. Mr. "I don't need no stinkin' doctors." 


We were both scared to death.


Slowly his breath returned, and after much discussion and diagnostic detective work, we deduced together that he had regurgitated some of last nights tamale in his sleep, and it had lodged, Janis Joplin-like, in the back of his throat, obstructing his larynx.


Whew. Crisis averted. But this was our second family medical emergency in less than a week.

Captain Chris and my mom in Puerta Vallarta

Just a few days ago my Mom came for a very short visit to La Cruz.  This 70-something force of nature named Charlotte is even more larger than life than my husband. She could take Betty White in a heartbeat. I fully expect Chris and my mom to outlive me, and the rest of the family, for that matter.

My adorable, spunky Mom taking photos on the Puerta Vallarta malecon

When the three of us play hearts, in reality it's Chris vs. Mom. Clash of the Titans. They are two of the most competitive people I know. I'm only included in the game because they need a 3rd person -- I'm merely a useless appendage.  It's sad, really.   (LOL) 

We took Mom to the thursday night "Movies under the stars" in the La Cruz marina amphitheater. After the movie, she tripped and hit her head, knee and both hands on the cold, dark rocks. 

(As an aside, if we were in the U.S. and not Mexico, we would have the lawsuit every lottery ticket buyer wishes for -- no lighting, no handrails, dark, steep, unmarked, sharp, hard rocks for stairs. But alas #1, this is NOT the U.S. And alas #2, we are not the lawsuit type.)

Fortunately her head, right hand and knee were all bloodied but without apparent broken bones. But her left hand zigged where it should have zagged. We offered to take her to the American hospital here in the Bay, but she blew us off with her wilted, swollen hand and we took her back to the boat where we wrapped her mangled limb with ice and an ace bandage, loaded her with Advil and tucked her into bed.

Thankfully, the next morning she was laughing and ready for another Gladiator-type hearts game. Thank God her head was OK!

Before returning to California, Mom surprised us by pulling a miniature "Wilson" from her suitcase (made famous from the Tom Hanks movie "Cast Away"), made from a tennis ball instead of a volleyball.

Little "Wilson"

I had made this for Mom at an Oscar Party I threw the year "Cast Away" was nominated for several awards. She had kept it ever since.

Mom and "Little Wilson" where we fastened him permanently near the companionway. He will be our 3rd crew member, and we're certain, will bring us very good luck!

We suspect Mom promptly removed my professionally applied ace wrap and tossed it into the trash the minute we left her at the Puerta Vallarta airport.

So -- it's been a shaky week! Family. Watcha gonna do? 

And speaking of family -- tomorrow we're pulling up anchor and finally heading south from La Cruz after more than a month living here. 

We leave behind in La Cruz Anon, Cyclides, Damiana, Glory Days, Final Escape, Grace, Jace, Lorelei, Jean Marie, Mlawu, Ponderosa, Woofie, Younger Woman, and so many more -- and a special hug to Interabang, Island Bound, Marionetto and Talaria. XOXOXOXOXOXOXO 

You have literally been our family over the past weeks. You've cared for us, laughed with us, encouraged us and basically taken up the job of being our family while we're away from the one back home. It's tough to leave!

But leave we must. So, as Willie Nelson says, "We'll see you on down the road..."

Boca Tomatlan to Quimixto Waterfall

We went on an amazing and arduous hike through some of the most picturesque areas in Pacific Mexico. Our friend April of Wavehouse drove a group of us south from La Cruz, through Puerta Vallarta, and into southern Banderas Bay.

South of Puerta Vallarta, to the isolated parts of Banderas Bay

We drove past the spot where they filmed the classic Richard Burton film "Night of the Iguana."

It's a crazy movie, if you've never seen it. It's very Tennessee Williams. Well, that's cause it IS from a Tennessee Williams play.  It's dramatic AC-TING with a capital "A." It's a bit over the top. But worth seeing nonetheless.

Anywhoo, we arrived at the start of our hike, an adorable little village called Boca Tomatian.

The starting point of our hike: Boca Tomatlan

Our trail went right next to the water as we headed south

No, this is not Tom Sawyer's Island at Disneyland, this is a real rickety little suspension bridge we crossed during our hike. How cute is THAT? :-) 

We stopped for a break at a gorgeous isolated beach.

Chris and I went for swim #1 at this lovely pristine spot

Refreshed after our swim, we hit the trail again, which continued along the waterfront. 

We stopped for lunch in the adorable oceanfront village of Las Animas. We "pre-ate" a peanut butter and honey sandwich we had packed out on the beach, and then split an entree in the palapa restaurant. (We're big on "pre-eating" before going into a restaurant as a money-saving trick -- that, and "post-eating," which usually consists of cheese and crackers back on the boat.) Then after the meal -- swim #2.

After lunch we hit the trail again -- and even more rickety bridges

There was a 20 foot drop under this thing -- YIKES!

Spectacular views abounded. But we were getting pretty tired -- the entire hike took about 6 hours!

We kept pinching ourselves on the beauty of the trail. The ocean to our right, the forest to our left.

  We then turned inland, for the last leg of our hike up, up, UP through 

the ranching village of Quimixto to the mountain spring and waterfall.

Um, OK. No, that is not a 5th leg. Oh. My. Lord.

A group of wild horses ran right past us! Wow...

We continued ever upward

We finally made it to the Quimixto spring and waterfall!
We swam and swam (swim #3)...AAAAHHHHHHH.

What a day! We were completely exhausted but really happy. The trip ended with a panga ride back to Boca Tomatlan. The driver of our boat was 14 years old. Ha! Bienvenidos a Mexico! 

Chris, April and Tricia enjoy a speedy panga ride back to Boca Tomatlan

Well, after a month in Banderas Bay, we've definitely seen the place and experienced it. We're really leaving. Honest. Soon...

Photo tour of Puerta Vallarta

After a couple of weeks happily anchored at cozy little La Cruz, we finally stepped up to the plate and took the bus (actually, 3 buses) with Rick and Dina of Talaria into the big city about an hour south.

We're here in Puerta Vallarta...and we SAILED here!

Every large Mexican town has a cathedral towering over the town square

Puerta Vallarta reminded us a bit of Laguna Beach, the way the homes jutted
up into the hillside overlooking the waterfront. 

                     

See what I mean? The "malecon" ("waterfront" in Spanish) 

The Malecon glows after sunset

We had lunch in this sweet little open air restaurant. Travel tip: this place at which we ate is frequented by locals, not by tourists, and hence the prices are much cheaper than the waterfront places for the tourists. Ya gotta go a couple of blocks away from the tourist areas, people...it's where the real life is! 

Lovely PV

Captain Chris on the Malecon

There is a charming flea market on the Cuale River, which runs right through downtown PV

Chris' body language says "What am I doing?" as he crosses the suspension bridge over the river

Once again I had the sensation that I was at Disneyland, not actually in "real life."

Down by the river -- right through downtown! Crazy cool!

Happy

The Cuale river runs right down to the beach

Chris with Rick and Deena of Talaria

We ended the day with a trip to the PV Costco

It was so eerily like a Costco in the US, it almost felt like we stepped into the Star Trek transporter back to the states! Here we are having a Costco pizza. Weird. 

You may wonder about the prices at the Puerta Vallarta Costco compared to in the states. Well, we spent 2,000 pesos! But don't worry -- that's less than 200 U.S. dollars. We managed to bypass the gallon jugs of olive oil, as this would take up half of our galley. LOL...

Gunboats and rifles and choppers -- Oh My!

Yesterday morning, the 30 or so sailboats gently bobbing in the peaceful La Cruz anchorage were awakened by the buzzing of a Mexican military chopper flying overhead.

He flew low over us one more time. And again. OK -- something's up.

We turned on the VHF radio, started the coffee and popped up on deck into the cockpit.

What's this? A Mexican military frigate had planted itself on the edge of the anchorage.

And on the other side of the small anchorage, a second gunboat had silently entered the picture. With several armed military men aboard. This boat was slowly driving right through the anchorage, within a few feet of the sailboats.

The same chopper continued to circle aggressively over the anchorage for another several cycles.

Chris and I uttered a couple of "Hmmmm...what's this?" type mutterings under our breath,  but basically we were silent. And observing.

The morning VHF channel 22 radio net, which at this time of the morning would normally be cheerfully buzzing with cruiser hailings from one boat to another, making New Years Eve plans, asking if anyone has a spare fuel pump, etc. -- was curiously silent as well.

Every sailor in the anchorage sat silently and vulnerably in their little sailboats, which suddenly felt as small and vulnerable as toys bobbing in a bathtub.

One sailboat next to us had clearly seen enough. They pulled up their dinghy and anchor and quickly headed to sea. I wondered if this was such a good idea...

A peek through our binoculars showed these hapless sailors were promptly boarded by a gunboat about a mile out to sea. Like I said: not such a good idea.

This was unlike anything we had seen in Mexico so far during our travels.

This is a good time to point out that each time we have met Mexican police or Navy during our travels, they have been friendly, helpful and completely non-aggressive. We have felt absolutely safe in their care.

Now a third, fourth and fifth gunboat entered the picture. From all sides.

"I think I'll get dressed." I said matter of factly. Who knew what would happen next? Being in pajamas just seemed so...vulnerable. And ridiculous.

Yes. I would get dressed. That is the next indicated step.

We were looking forward with intense curiosity to the 8:30 morning cruisers net on the radio. This is where all of the daily comings and goings of the marina and anchorage are discussed. What, if anything, would they say about this interesting situation in which we found ourselves?

At 8:30 they started the radio net as usual. They made announcements as usual. They discussed the weather, tides, upcoming New Years Eve plans, as usual.

Another chopper flew low and hard overhead in the middle of an announcement, which needed to be repeated due to the interruption.

After several minutes it became clear that noone was going to acknowledge this flack-jacketed elephant in the middle of our floating living room.

Wow.

I turned to Chris and whispered slowly, and with intensity:

"If you don't discuss it...it doesn't exist."


We shared a hearty laugh over this inside joke, which helped cut the tension that hung over the boats and the anchorage like a cold fog bank.

We had heard this line a couple of days earlier from our friend Kat, who had shared it during a discussion of the mindset some people have in keeping long-held deep, dark family secrets:

(whispered slowly, and with intention) "If you don't discuss it...it doesn't exist."


After 20 minutes the cruisers net ended, and the "social net" started, which is a more casual VHF net to discuss events, maintenance issues, etc.

Finally, finally, FINALLY, at the very end of the cruisers net, someone got the guts to acknowledge the obvious and asked:

"Uh, well, does anyone have any idea why there are military choppers flying over and we are completely surrounded by the Mexican navy?"

I can guarantee you that every crew member on every boat within radio range dropped what they were doing and literally leaned 2 feet forward and planted their face and ear next to the radio to hear the response.

We found out that there was a perfectly good explanation for the military armada.

No, they were not a gang of corrupt militias about to board, rape and pillage every boat in the harbor.

It turns out that the governors of both Nayarit and neighboring Jalisco were arriving in La Cruz for a presentation at the marina to fisherman who had performed heroically during a recent mishap at sea. And this was simply a completely normal military/police presence to preserve the peace during this political visit.

Smile.

Ha!

Well. Just goes to show you.   :-)

We promptly took the bus into downtown Puerta Vallarta immediately afterwards with Talaria and had a wonderful day, chattering on about our morning adventure.

Happy to be alive and having the adventure of our lives!     :-)   XOXOXO Liz and Chris