Sunday, January 10, 2016

CaboLand -- it's an E ticket ride!

The required "We're Here!" shot as we round Los Arcos

We had nearly completed our one night voyage from Mag Bay to Cabo. It was 5AM, Chris was on watch and I was curled up asleep, cradled in the leecloth. I dreamt that Chris and I had done the Newport to Cabo yacht race, and we won first prize! In the dream, Chris came down from the awards stage carrying several trophies, his face beaming.

I woke up and smiled lazily. What a silly, but appropriate, dream. 

Cabo. After all of our mechanical/electrical issues coming down Baja -- we made it. Finally.  

The huge rocky spires at the mouth of Cabo are a happy sight for any sailor

The last time we were here in 2011, they charged $7 a day to anchor off the main beach. Happily, we've been here 6 days now, and so far it's been FREE!!!!!!!!!!!  :-)

Well...almost free.

Chris at the Cabo dinghy dock -- $3 US a day. Ah, well...

My husband has the irritating gift of a deep pool of boundless energy and curiosity which he taps into  immediately each time we drop anchor at a new port. Most boats sleep for a whole day before coming ashore after an overnight passage. 

Not Chris.

He can't wait to jump ashore and explore -- even if he's gone 30 hours without sleep. He's manic that way. (smile)  Lil' old lazy, exhausted me does her best to keep up. I mean, he's so excited -- like a 12 year old boy. He inspires me to dig deep, find the energy and just do it!

Cabo has had a tough couple of years, having been directly hit by not one, but two major hurricanes.

These giant waves from Hurricane Odille are in just 
about the same spot Espiritu rests at anchor

Waves from Hurricane Odille pummel the gigantic Los Arcos.
These things are a couple of hundred feet tall! 

We weren't sure what to expect after such devastation. They've worked like crazy in the last few months to repair all of the damage.  To the untrained eye, Cabo is up and running as if nothing every happened.

But the signs are there, if you know where to look.

HOOTERS became -OO-ERS after the hurricane

Destroyed, sunken dock at the marina remains unrepaired

But for the most part, she's completely rebounded. 

There's ingenuity in this rebuilding plan. This and many other beachfront hotels now feature great protective walls, which they've built in a "Pirates of the Carribean" style

The only other sailboat in the anchorage was s/v Enchanter.
Rijnhard is from South Africa, and Lisa's Australian 

Impossibly spectacular Cabo sunrise

Cabo main beach

This resort has a Hawaii-like feel

Happy to be here. Behind us is Espiritu and a water jet rider

This resort has a pirate ship restaurant in the middle of the pool

Many sailors pass Cabo completely during their voyage south. Well. We simply don't get it.
 I mean -- it's CABO!!!!!!! 

Skip Cabo? Are you crazy?!?!?!?!? 

Of course, since we don't drink and like to be in bed by 8PM if possible, we steered clear of many of Cabo's more famous attractions.

But that doesn't mean we don't like to watch...

A stereotypical group of college students having 
good, clean fun. Right kids? Good clean fun? (Don't answer that)

A long line of tourists wait to board the "pirate ship." I wanted to warn 
them that they don't even raise the sails during their trip around the bay, 
but I guess most tourists don't even notice. 

I was confused by this Cabo advertising poster, which says:

"What happens in Cabo never happens."

??? Whaaaaaa???? 

My best guess is this is a bad translation/misinterpretation of the famous "What happens in Vegas, stays in Vegas." 

Each morning at sunrise, we watched the tourist sportfisher boats parade out to the fishing grounds. One after another motored past -- dozens of them -- every day.

Lorenzillo's "girls" -- AKA, the lobsters waiting to be plucked for
 the pot. Am I the only one who has the urge to drop a Prozac 
tablet into the water whenever I see these poor guys? 

Chris actually bought -- and ate -- a $1 heart taco.

No, not "I heart tacos." I mean he really ate a taco made with cow heart.

Welcome to Mexico! 

Actually, I'm concerned. Does this mean he will turn into a vampire? 

Armando will give you a "shot" of Cuervo from 
his holster if you show him your breasts. Welcome to Cabo!

And yet, there's beauty and even moments of tranquility hidden just underneath her glossy surface.

beach and sky 

Early one morning we were awakened from a deep sleep by the squeaks and moans of humpback whales singing. We lay huddled in the v-berth, our ears pressed against the hull as the songs continued for more than an hour. What a gift.

A sea lion sleeps in the shadow of the Cabo resorts

And of course, Cabo is a working town. Thousands of locals live and work here, just inland from the waterfront.

Locals fish off the jetty on their one day off

There are little Catholic altars with candles nestled on street corners all over the city, including this one right in the middle of all of the crazy "Girls Gone Wild" madness. The locals stop and cross themselves as they pass on their way to work at what many of them certainly consider "dens of iniquity."

Out in the anchorage, there is a constant stream of Jet Skis, speedboaters and waterskiers circling and buzzing all around us, leaving the water in a near continuous fever chop. Party boats with tacky flashing lights putter by at night blasting "My girl wants to party all the time, party all the time, party all the time..." from blown out speakers.

But then last night Chris and I strolled around the marina waterfront. Music wafted out from the bars and restaurants, and a warm breeze brushed our cheeks. It felt like a completely fake "land" enclosed in Vegas or at Disneyland. And yet...I kinda loved it. 

The romantic waterfront of the Cabo marina casts it's spell

It really feels like CaboLand at Disneyland. I get why it's so popular.

Local color -- meet Chewie.

And speaking of Chewie, we saw the new Star Wars here at the Cabo theatre.

$3 US dollars!  

Spanish subtitles top the iconic Star Wars opening scene

It might seem strange to see Star Wars in Cabo, but to me, it makes perfect sense. After all, you know what Cabo San Lucas means in English, don't you?

Cape Saint Luke.

Que la Fuerza este con Usted...



  1. Meanwhile here in the mountains we are nicely moving about after a heavy wet 7" of snow. Trick for getting 2" of ice off of wooden steps . . . pound with rubber mallet.

    1. Wow! Enjoy the snow! It must be cray cray up in GVL!

  2. Replies
    1. Thanks, Paul! Hopefully our paths will cross in the next year!

  3. Hey guys it's Marty from Desiderata! Finally made it down. Got my butt handed to me and the radar ripped off the mast on the way down but other than that I'm safe and the boat is in good shape otherwise. I skipped Cabo and I'm at San Jose Del Cabo awaiting getting the radar repaired. Pretty sure I'm heading to La Paz from here. Hope all is well with both of you. Warm regards!!

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